ESPITA, MEXICO
MAY 25
ESPITA IS A SLEEPY LITTLE SPOT IN MEXICO'S YUCATAN, 30 MINUTES DRIVE FROM VALLADOLID, AND AN HOUR FROM THE FISHING VILLAGE ON SAN FELIPE (THAT WAS SUCH A CRAZY YET BEAUTIFUL ADVENTURE BY THE WAY SO HAVE INCLUDED BELOW). I CHOSE ESPITA TO STOP BY HALF WAY TO SISAL ON THE COAST, STOPPING FOR FOUR NIGHTS JUST BECAUSE I COULD. IT IS NOT A TOURIST SPOT REALLY, WITH JUST A COUPLE OF SMALL STYLISH HOTELS THAT ALMOST SEEM OUT OF PLACE BUT COMPLIMENT ESPITA SO WELL, CASONA LOS CEDROS AND CASA KACAYA. ESPITA SEEMS TO JUST BE INNATELY CHIC. STAYING THERE CEMENTED IN MY MIND HOW ALL MEXICANS ARE IMPECCABLE WITH COLOUR. THEY NEVER GET IT WRONG, HIGH END ALL THE WAY TO FUN BUT TACKY. I REMEMBER ESPITA FEELING LIKE JUNGLE IN THE DESERT, HOT AND DUSTY, YET LUSH GREEN.
I STAYED IN AN AIRBNB THAT I FELL IN LOVE WITH, CASA MOCA, AN AUTHENTIC VILLA WITH A BEAUTIFUL TERRACE AND THREE GARDEN SUITES, THROUGH A LARGE WORN RED WOODEN DOOR OFF ONE OF THE MAIN STREETS WHICH GAVE NOTHING AWAY, IT WAS AN OASIS AT THE HEART OF THE MAGICAL TOWN. IT WAS OFFICIAL DESIGNATED A PUEBLO MAGICO BY THE GOVERNMENT IN 2023 FOR ITS CULTURE. WE DRANK IN BARS WITH THE LOCALS, SHOPPED IN THE MARKET AND COOKED IN THE STUNNING KITCHEN, BOUGHT CHARCOAL ROASTED CHICKENS FROM THE NEIGHBOUR ON SUNDAY AS THEY DO, AND DINED IN THE HOTEL RESTAURANT ON SENSATIONAL CONTEMPORARY YET DEEPLY AUTHENTIC LOCAL CUISINE. THE PEOPLE WERE SO WELCOMING AND GENEROUS THEY RESTORE YOUR FAITH IN HUMANITY.
THE FISHING VILLAGE OF SAN FELIPE IS MADE UP OF COLOURFUL WOODEN HOUSES, IS SET ON THE RIO LAGARTOS BIOSPHERE RESERVE. I PARKED UP ON THE WATERFRONT AND ASKED SOME LOCAL FISHERMEN SAT ON A BENCH WHERE THE BEST FISH RESTAURANT WAS, THEY SAID - OVER THERE, ON PLAYA DE SAN FELIPE, THOSE MEN OVER THERE WILL TAKE YOU IN A BOAT. I HAD EXPECTED TO SOME FRESH SEAFOOD IN THE HARBOUR, BUT I TOOK THEIR ADVICE. AS YOU CROSS TO PLAYA SAN FELIPE, ON A FACING STRIP OF LAND, YOU PASS FLOCKS OF FLAMINGOS AND SAIL THROUGH LUSH GREEN MANGROVES. ON ARRIVAL IT FELT NOTHING SHORT OF A DESERT ISLAND, PARADISE. THE MAN IN CHARGE, WHO HAD LIVED ALONE THERE FOR THREE YEARS, WAS SO SWEET. WE ORDERED COLD BOTTLED BEER AND RAW CEVICHE, AND SWAM IN THE SEA. IT IS ONE OF THE MOST UNUSUAL PLACES I HAVE EVER SET FOOT ON SO 100% WORTH A STOP BY.
