PUGLIA, THE REGION OF ITALY THAT HAS RECENTLY BLOSSOMED
CHARLOTTE TURNER, JANUARY 2022
FISHERMEN IN THE PORT OF GALLIPOLI
Puglia in Southern Italy has forever been enchanting, generous and beautiful. Photography by Mario De Biasi in Apulia back in 1985 portrayed this special place as a “land of mistery,” deeply rooted in tradition. More recently the restoration of ancient buildings across the varied landscape has created fabulous places to stay, sense Puglia’s soul and use as a base to explore this undiscovered part of Italy. As GQ so eloquently say “Puglia is not uptight, and your Puglia plans should mirror that.” A couple of nights in each part is the way to do it. There is no one place you must go, rather a wealth of delightful places to stay, dine and explore. It is ripe for a road trip yet just as suitable to have a base and day trip beautiful places nearby.
Labyrinths of streets fill the whitewashed hilltop towns such as Martina Franca and Locorotondo. Baroque facades deem Lecce “the Florence of the south”. Coastal towns such as Polignano a Mare, Monopoli and Otranto are lapped by an azure blue coastline. Masserie and conical roofed trulli lay low and in the Puglian plains scented with jasmine. This far south in Italy has a unique feel. A land of olive groves, citrus trees and row upon row of vines. It has a humble agricultural past. The regional cuisine cucina povera is simple food born from poverty, yet the quality of the produce is exceptional. The organic farming methods and ancient recipes are unique and add to the regions distinct appeal. It was in here that burrata was born in the 50’s.
The masterpiece Borgo Egnazia is the vison of architect Pino Brescia, brought to life by the Melpignano family. Bordering the sea near Savelletri de Fasano this vast resort is a replica of a Puglian village, or borgo. The Telegraph calls it a “magical, make-believe, candle-lit world,” with a “film-set quality that has lured Hollywood idols.” Madonna posted a pretty wild video of her running riot there the night she turned 63. Suites and villas are all crafted from the same Puglian cream stone adorned with colourful bougainvillea. Interiors are a blend of cream and white with candles everywhere. Large terraces give each guest a spectacular view of the Puglian countryside and the beautiful swimming pools that lie within the grounds. The indoor saltwater pool in the spa assures the property’s five stars, along with impeccable service from the beautifully dressed staff.
THE BAR AND BREAKFAST DISHES AT THE BORGO EGNAZIA, SAVELETTRI DI FASANO, PUGLIA.
Waking up at Borgo Egnazia is unreal, breakfast is out of this world. The kitchen produces its own burrata, ricotta, stracciatella cheese and yogurt. Accompanied by homemade fig jam, cooked peaches and plums from the orchard and Pane di Altamura – Puglia’s answer to sourdough. Wicker baskets are brought to the table offering an array of freshly baked pastries and brioche topped with berries or lemon curd. Tuna and trout are delicately plated. A bottle of negroamaro grape juice sits proudly where balsamic vinegar normally would.The private beach club Cala Masciola can be reached by valet driven golf cart or one of elegant bikes for guests. Here the seafront restaurant serves raw shellfish crudo and fish carpaccio to the sound of the sea and the resident DJ. When in season deep purple ricci di mare, sea urchins, are pulled from the water and prized opened to reveal their rich orange centre.
The press love Borgo Egnazia and its creation has clearly elevated global recognition of Puglia as a region in Italy to travel to. Vogue, Vanity Fair and Forbes are just a few who have given rave reviews of this relaxing restorative retreat. It was featured by Conde Nast Traveller as “most life-changing experience.” It truly is “like nowhere else.”
Instagram plays a big part in navigating what is on offer throughout this lesser-known land. Masseria Moroseta is a perfect example this. The tranquillity and rural simplicity that can be had by staying here is marketed through social media posts where images show long social tables set for dinner in its inner courtyard, candlelit under the night sky. Set in the Valle D’Itria and “immersed in the silence of nature,” Masseria Moroseta is built like a Puglian farmhouse yet minimalist in its design. The contemporary white stone exterior is visually striking and acts as the perfect backdrop to the surrounding olive groves, jade green pricky pear trees and speckled ceramics of the region used to serve delightful plates of food. Their chef Georgia Eugenia Goggi uses local organic produce to create colourful dishes. Scarlet prawns with purple radicchio, yellow courgettes in the form of zucchini escabeche and beautiful ripe figs served with fig oil, hazelnuts and pure white sheep’s ricotta. Slow living is at the heart of Masseria Moroseta’s ethos. A concept that began in Italy in the 1980’s defending regional food traditions, it now promotes a conscious, eco-friendly, sustainable way of life so inherent to this part of southern Italy. A compelling reason to choose Puglia for a fulfilling escape from the fast lane.
Slow living is at the heart of Masseria Moroseta’s ethos. A concept that began in Italy in the 1980’s defending regional food traditions, it now promotes a conscious, eco-friendly, sustainable way of life so inherent to this part of southern Italy. A compelling reason to choose Puglia for a fulfilling escape from the fast lane. One exceptional agrotourisme with excellent eco credentials is the Masseria Montenapoleone. An elegant farmhouse laid untouched for 50 years prior to its restoration by the Monteneve family. The striking white and red-trim paint of its past was reinstated and the agricultural use of the land reborn. The property is set within lush grounds where split pomegranates bejewel branches and aromatic herbs grow in abundance. Their fig trees produce premium quality fiorone figs and their almond trees tondina di Ostuni, an almond sweet and rich in oil. It is a joy to wander the gardens plucking ripe fruit from the trees and devouring it on the spot.
Alessandra and Luciano Monteneve are driven by a quest for sustainability and bio diversity. Their fabulous and extremely pretty restaurant flaunts the regions gastronomy and promotes the masseria's organic farming and cultivation of native species of seeds and grains. The most delicious pasta is served in large ceramic bowls whilst gentle jazz provides the perfect ambience to while one’s time away. The OECD and Government of Puglia put in place a project in 2009 to “assist Apulia to foster local economic and entrepreneurship,” their general aim is to “integrate and strengthen the tourism industry” and “increase Apulia destinations competitiveness and the seasonal adjustment of the local tourism industry.” Alessandra and Luciano’s efforts are a prime example of these aims being achieved. The summer months see picnics in the orchards, whilst wine tasting and cooking classes transcend seasons. In winter strings of tomatoes adorn every rafter, their red and orange hue acting as seasonal design and a reminder of how integral preservation is and always has been here.
Further south into the peninsular lies Lecce. Elegant cream stone baroque architecture and the Basilica di Santa Croce make an enchanting backdrop for this ever so Italian city. Jugs of dried pepperoncino adorn wooden bar tables in the street, Aperol spritz with crunchy local snack taralli feels obligatory and it really is difficult to choose where to eat if you have little time. La Pescheria Con Cottura is a gem. The staff barely speak English and you have to pick your dinner from a raw fish counter and black board with Italian scrawl before being seated. It is worth it though as the ceviche is to die for, as is the seafood troccoli – a little thicker than spaghetti - served on top of fava bean puree and drizzled with olive oil. The wine list has Negroamaro, Primitivo and Salice Salentino. All local and all delicious.
If you stay in Lecce, venture further south, even for the day. As you reach the Serre Salentine the drive becomes panoramic. It winds seductively into the fishing village of Porto Tricase and a show stopping pescheria awaits in the form of Taverna Del Porto. The rustic yet chic deep blue and white exterior is authenticated by wader-clad fisherman loitering outside. It is usual to wait for a table here. Large deck chairs are in place for this purpose, facing an uninterrupted view of the Ionian Sea. Their blue and white stripes playful and cleverly linking the blue of the taverna with the deep blue sea. The people of Tricase can be seen through the window enjoying a leisurely lunch. Their tables littered with dishes from sharing seafood and glasses from drinking wine.
CURBSIDE, AND RESTAURANT DISHES AT TAVERNA DEL PORTO, PORTO TRICASSE
Once inside, the most beautiful fish counter takes pride of place. The food is different and divine. Bruschetta is topped with fresh mackerel and sweet tomatoes. Crumbed and lightly fried swordfish is served on a stick, perfect to swipe in rich garlic aioli. “Scent of the sea” spaghetti is delicately entwined with succulent gamberoni, soft squid and clams. Octopus is served charred on potato cream dusted with polvere di pepperoncino. Nearby in the marina fishermen sit chatting on their painted boats, just before a pretty little bay where the waters turn turquoise. The raspberry red of the iconic casa rosa perching on the beach is a beautiful colour injection. Porto Tricase is peaceful, pretty and its location profound. Head west on the Puglian Peninsular and you reach the Gulf of Taranto. Here lies the ancient fortified town of Gallipoli. Contemporary yet quaint restaurants line the long coastal path, most painted white with their name simply signed, some make you think of Mykonos. Amu fish restaurant sits in a beautiful spot, serving you sashimi and panko seared tuna steak whilst you stare out to sea.
AMU FISH RESTAURANT IN GALLIPOLI
A Greek influence is felt in much of Puglia. The past invasion left its mark and no more so than it its magnificent città bianca. Ostuni sits high above the horizon like a pearl or the moon at night. The crumbling white houses are linked by a warren of staircases that is fun to clamber down. The recent restoration of Palazzo Russo, a powder-red 18th century mansion in its centre, has born the decadent Paragon 700. It is a fairy tale to sleep in the soft washed linen sheets below vaulted ceilings adorned with frescoes. The design throughout is exotic and intense, yet captivating. Theatrical curtains frame polished stone stairs leading to the suites where muted yet seductive tones create an idyllic ambience, with a cast iron balcony looking down on the streets below. The resoration of this Puglian palace took entrepreneurs Pascale Laube and Ulrike Bauschke four long years. Grand design-esque glass doors lead from the bistro, Restaurant 700, into a secret garden with an al-fresco bar and a beautiful outdoor pool. Conde Nast Traveller deem it “a theatrical and secluded stay.” The renovation of Palazzo Russo, like many other projects in Puglia, was a love story not just a business venture.
This unique part of Italy has by no means been spoilt by its new found fame, just made more beautiful by being touched up. Luckily development has taken the form of sympathetic restoration or replication whilst preserving the regions culture and traditions. An innovative tourism industry has been created and the authenticity of the region is still real and felt in every part.
